Train trip to Guernica and Bermeo















We had real (!) coffee and delicious banana bread at a cafe recommended by Rick Steves. There was a line to order that made us later than we planned but it was worth it. We set off for the train station and could not find it using google maps. We stopped at the tourist information center which was really helpful. We had decided to visit Guernica an important Basque City that was bombed during the Spanish civil war. Franco offered to Hitler that he could use the trouble-making town for target practice. The bombing occurred on a busy market day and countless civilians were killed and wounded. Picasso heard about it and painted a famous mural. Kaya the foodie guide opined that there was not enough to see there and encouraged us to also visit the seaside towns of Mundaka (famous for surfing) and Bermeo (traditional fishing village). She recommended visiting Bermeo first, then Mundaka, then Guernica. 

At the train station, a helpful attendant helped us buy tickets to Bermeo. While on the train (it was now about 12:30 pm) we realized that the two museums we wanted to see in Guernica closed at 2:30 and 3:00 pm. We decided to disembark and see Guernica first. We found the tourist office and bought tickets for both museums. We decided to visit the one that was closing at 2:30 first. We had to climb a load of steps to reach the Basque history museum. It was only mildly interesting and very little was in English. We did learn that Ravel - of Bolero fame - was Basque. We decided we didn’t have time to see the Basques In California exhibit as it was 1:45 by this point. 

We headed down steps and steep roads and found the Basque Peace Museum - reported to have lots of displays about the bombing. It was supposed to close at 3 but they had decided to close it at 2. We asked about the famous oak tree where Basque councils are held to this day and were told it was back up the hill and was closed till 4 pm. We snapped a few photos of the busy plaza in Guernica and returned to the train station. Unlike what we had been told at the tourist information office, the train tickets were no longer valid to Bermeo. The attendant helped us buy new ones. 

The ride to Bermeo was very scenic and we had many beautiful vistas of the coast. Arriving in Bermeo we wandered along the harbor, considered a boat tour but they were all sold out and had a lovely seafood lunch of grilled octopus and tuna belly. The cafe was right on the harbor with great people watching. At one point an Amazon prime truck went by. A drunk talkative lady took a shine to Nick and, to lose her, we walked a bit in the town. We found a scenic overlook and a pretty church. We decided to catch the 5:50 train back to Bilbao. We were able to purchase our tickets without assistance once we located the button for instructions in English. The day was not a complete success but it was enjoyable. 

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