First Match

 On Saturday we met for breakfast in the hotel at 9:00. It was a cold spread with a coffee machine where cafe au lait has been Sue’s drink of choice. Mary set off shopping and Julie, Nick and Sue went sightseeing. First we stopped in the Jarden de Mairie which was the back of City Hall and a couple had just been married. They played festive music from a boombox while their friends applauded and took photos. The garden itself had some interesting sculptures and lovely flowers interspersed with vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. It was odd but beautiful. 

We then went to the Cathedral of St. Andrew, partially covered in scaffolding, as seems always the case. It was across a plaza from the front of City Hall and another wedding. We loved the gothic belfry with gargoyles on the front of the Cathedral. Inside there was a massive organ, impressive carvings, lots of beautiful stained glass windows and numerous side chapels. Mass was being said in one area. Then we walked down to the Miror de Eau, billed as the world’s larger reflecting pool.  It is across a beautiful square with elaborate fountain near the River. There were numerous children, dogs and others walking and sliding in the misty expanse. (Some cynic later said it was just a big splash pad.) We saw two trams unload there so we asked some Irish rugby fans where they got their tram tickets. They described sellers in pink shirts with a flag near the town center. We set off to find them and never did. Instead we found the tourist office who directed us across the street to the Quincinces station. This is the station we will use to get to the stadium so it was great to find it. Nick purchased 4 48-hour passes, and we headed back to the hotel to meet Mary. Everywhere was a sea of green shirted rugby fans. 

By the time we reached the hotel it was 90 degrees and Sue changed all her clothes to fresh ones. We sported our Ireland Rugby gear from Elvery’s and Julie had a shirt she purchased from Facebook. Mary had a vintage long sleeve shirt from the Six Nations which she attempted to swap with various people for a short sleeved shirt. A teenage boy was interested until his mother put the kibosh on it. We reached the station and joined the queue of green shirts. A train came quite soon, and it was fairly empty so we were able to get on. But there were no seats and loads of people pressed in behind us. We were stuck in a mass of hot sweaty people with no room to move. And at every station more people attempted to get on. Some were intimidated by the “Nos” shouted from the packed car; others forced their way in. The guys near us were sweating so bad that one kept telling the other how wet his head was. Sue’s fresh clothes were soaked; Julie was wilting and doing her best to drink water, but it was hard to move the bottle to her mouth. Of course we made friends with our fellow sufferers and a when a charming young woman near us told us she was celebrating completing her phD in sociology, Mary offered her card to possibly recruit her. 

After at least 30 fairly agonizing minutes we reached the stadium. We found the beer stand and some shade. We were there in plenty of time. Mary was shut out of her shirt purchasing efforts outside but succeeded once we entered. We found our gate and climbed 100 steps up to the level of our seats. We were in the second level about midfield and, blessedly, there was an overhang over our seats so we were in the shade. Beer and food purchases were problematic. Lines took forever. Every time one of us left for beer or food, we ended up texting, Where are you? Do you need help? Some of our tour group showed up looking quite bedraggled. Their bus had broken down and they were forced to walk a long way to the Stadium  

The pre-game entertainment on two large screens was not very interesting but finally the players came out to warm up. Then they went back in and ran out of the tunnel together. The teams lined up in two long lines, and everyone stood as they played the National Anthem of both teams. Then the game was on. Romania scored the first try, but that was it for their offense. It was try after try for Ireland which was very exciting for us. It was 33 - 8 at halftime and when we left with 10 minutes to go in the second half it was 60-something to 8. We beat the crowds, got a seat on the tram and found out the final score was 82 - 8. According to one website, Romania had been beaten by the likes of the US (who did not qualify for this year’s World Cup). Apparently, Romania only made it when Spain was disqualified for fielding an ineligible player in the qualifying matches.

After a much more pleasant return trip, we found the wine bar near the tourist office that supposedly featured all the wines of Bordeaux according to John. There were only 20 or so wines on the menu so that wasn’t exactly true, but we enjoyed the experience anyway. There was a beautiful stained glass window and a carved slogan that Julie translated to say a civilization with wine is less contrary and combative. We’re not sure they were describing us. Various people kept congratulating us on our big victory. 

We then walked to Baud et Millet, the cheese restaurant that Sue read about. All they serve is cheese. The waiter brought a chalkboard with the menu. We had a delightful Tour de France which was 10 cheeses chosen by the chef, a foie gras pate with cheese dish that Julie and Mary shared and a warm Camembert with rosemary with loads of amazing French bread for dipping. Nick loved the Comte cheese. To choose our white wine, we took the spiral staircase to the cellar where we got to see all the cheeses they had. It was an interesting and delicious experience. We walked back to the hotel in a cheese-infused euphoria.